It’s midnight and Donatella is waiting in the queue at Il Maritozzaro in Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood. While her preteen son trails sulkily behind her, she is lit up with childlike excitement. “He’s ...

Roman cuisine is a reflection of the city itself — layered, deeply rooted in tradition, and full of contrasts. After years of eating my way through Rome, I’ve found that the best meals are often ...