The heavy thud against the glass window sent Krishna Bahadur Rasaili’s heart racing. Stepping outside, he saw his granary lay in ruins, and an elephant was feasting on his hard-earned paddy harvest.

Here in Part II, we break down what it takes to do Nepal's 1,750km Great Himalayan Trail, both guided and unguided.

For all this "dam for a dam" water war, relations between the two nations along their disputed Himalayan border are not ...